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The late 70s; paying at the gate, standing on the terraces, the football special, the ordinary, Transalpino, plus the birth of terrace fashion. Skinhead/bootboy/mod styles were replaced with a new working class hero. The terrace dresser became known as the casual. First appearing on Merseyside with wedge haircuts, Slazenger jumpers, Lois jeans or cords, and a prestigious pair of adidas trainers. These early fashions involved a myriad of names, all readily available on the U.K. high street. Fred Perry polo’s, small collared shirts, plain Pringle jumpers, Marc O’Polo sweatshirts, Lonsdale t-shirts, Peter Storm kagoules, adidas and Patrick kagoules, jockey jackets, Stanley jackets plus an assortment of jeans from the likes of Inega, F.U.’s, Second Image, Fiorucci etc, etc, etc.
The one defining factor appeared to be the ubiquitous trainer. adidas were held in high esteem with its Stan Smith and Forest Hills holding court before short spells of Diadora with the Borg Elite and Puma with the Menotti and G. Vilas. Before this transformation, training shoes had been for just that, training. No one walked the streets in this type of sportswear. Every pair was made with the sole intention of playing sport, whether it was tennis, football or athletics. In this male dominated culture, the training shoe became a leisure shoe. It would take until the mid 80s before adidas became aware of this fact and began producing trainers for everyday leisure purposes. But the casual was setting trends that the fashion world would have to follow.
The look evolved during the 80s, the label became more expensive and the more exclusive it was, the better. This exclusivity involved tracking down desirable trainers and sportswear from foreign lands.
Liverpool and Evertons involvement in European competition during this era meant the world of designer labels opened up to the fans. Cheap transportation courtesy of Transalpino enabled many to experience welcoming sports shops throughout Europe.
Britain was in recession in the early 80s and many major labels such as adidas didn’t think a trainer costing more than £19.99 would sell here. On the continent though, adidas were selling shoes marked up to £40. A lot of research and money was going into the production of these shoes and that was apparent in the high price. This did not stop impudent upstarts liberating the place of the most reputable of brands. Supporters returning home with the expensive styles started a phenomenal demand and as word spread, so did the new culture.
The casual’s uniform began comprising of labels acquired from these European awaydays. Footwear by adidas in particular and clothes by the likes of Ellesse, Fila, Sergio Tacchini, Cerruti 1881 and Australian L’Alpina, became influential to many.
The humble tracksuit, once used as a warm up kit for athletes, soon became characteristic terrace attire. The Fila BJ becoming an iconic piece from the era.
As the 80s unfolded a style wars erupted on the terraces of Britain, with certain areas having its own take on the fashions of the day. London ‘chaps’ adopted the ‘diamond’ Pringle jumper, Lyle and Scott and Lacoste jumpers, Burberry jackets plus Aquascutum shirts as de rigeur. While up in Scotland, brightly coloured golf jumpers, Nike kagoules and bleached jeans held sway. Nike trainers also became more frequently purchased. Although Nike had only been imported to a few shops since 1979, John McEnroes Wimbledon win in 1981 brought the name to everyone’s attention. The ‘Wimbledon’ and ‘Internationalist’ trainers being the highlights of these early days.
In November 1982, Wade Smith in Liverpool became the fledgling store that sold just designer sportswear. The shop became a benchmark for others to follow, being the first in Europe and before long numerous stores across the country began opening. Within a few years the culture was approaching mainstream but an indelible mark had been left on the U.K.
As the 80s progressed labels once seen as designer soon became mass market brands. The casual was still seeking stylish individuality though and new labels such as Pop 84, Chevignon, Chipie, Ball jeans, Bonneville, Verte Vallee, Classic Nouveau emerged, all contributing to the scene. The fashion was never static and would move on throughout the following decade with C.P. Company and Stone Island spearheading a passionate quest for style.
The trainer has remained at the core of the culture for almost 30 years, a fact not lost on the many trainer brands who constantly re-issue timeless classics from the golden era of terrace fashion.
Those were the days my friend.
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